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your hook in. This is the hand that does most of the action, while the other hand guides the yarn and holds the work that's already been completed. Although most crochet patterns are written for right-handed people, those of you that are lefties shouldn't be discouraged. Your motions are exactly the same. You just do it with your left hand instead of your right. Getting a grip Even though you crochet with only one hook, both hands are kept busy. Your dominant hand holds the hook, and your other hand holds the yarn. Holding your crochet hook is pretty simple. You just need to get a nice hold on your hook. If your hand isn't comfortable, it can cramp up, and your stitches won't go with the flow. Crocheting should be relaxing, not a continuous fight with the hook and yarn. Experiment with each of the following positions to see which one feels the most comfortable for you.

• Over-the-hook position: Position your hand over the hook with the handle resting against your palm and your thumb and middle finger grasping the thumb rest.

• Under-the-hook position: Hold the hook as you would a pencil with the thumb rest between your forefinger and thumb.

Both are common ways of holding the crochet hook — for lefties and righties. Both work just fine. When you first start working with yarn, it's best to use a light to medium, solid color worsted-weight yarn. You'll be able to see the stitches more clearly and manipulate the yarn easier, thus eliminating any potential problems that may occur if you used a textured or variegated yarn. After you know what to do with the hook, you need to grab hold of the yarn. Like holding the hook, holding the yarn properly may seem simple. It may also seem like your fingers have to be contortionists to achieve the proper position, but don't worry, they can do it. Your yarn hand — the hand not holding your hook — has an important job. Not only does it feed the yarn to your crochet hook, but it also controls the tension of the yarn. Remember that right-handed crocheters wrap the yarn over their left hand, and left-handed people wrap the yarn over their right hand. The following steps offer one common method for wrapping the yarn around your hand. 1. Starting from underneath your hand, bring the yarn up between your little finger and ring finger. 2. Wrap the yarn around your little finger to form a loop. 3. Draw the yarn under your ring finger and middle finger. 4. Bring the yarn up to the top of your hand between your middle finger and forefinger. 5. Finally, lay the yarn over your forefinger. To keep the yarn in place, grasp the end of the yarn between your middle finger and thumb. By raising or lowering your forefinger, you can control the yarn tension. Practice wrapping and rewrapping the yarn around your yarn hand. Whenever you feel that your working yarn is too loose or too tight, stop and rewrap to get the proper tension. This motion will soon become an ingrained habit. Crocheting in Circles - For Dummies Crocheting For Dummies Crocheting in Circles Adapted From: Crocheting For Dummies Printer-ready version To begin a design that you work in rounds, you first have to create a center ring. The center ring is the foundation for all crocheted designs that are worked in rounds — just like the foundation chain you use when working in rows. The center ring is the circle created by several chain stitches joined together to form a circle, or it can be just a single chain stitch. This article shows you the two most common methods for creating the center ring, when you want to use each, and how to end a round and be in the proper position to start the next round. The two most frequently used methods are making a ring of chain stitches or working a round of stitches into one chain stitch. Working stitches in the hole The most common method for creating a center ring is to make a chain and close it into a ring with a slip stitch. You would use this method when your first round is made up of a fairly large number of stitches and you need the room in which to fit them, or if the design calls for an obvious hole in the center. The following steps show you how to create a simple center ring of 6 chain stitches: 1. Chain (ch) 6. 2. Insert your hook into the first chain stitch you made, forming a ring (see Figure 1). Figure 1: Making the center-ring chain. 3. Yarn over your hook (yo). 4. Draw the yarn through the stitch and through the loop on your hook, as Figure 2a shows. Your center ring is now complete (see Figure 2b). Figure 2: Completing the center ring. The number of stitches in the beginning chain determines the size of the hole that the center ring creates as well as how many stitches you can work into the center ring. Make sure the ring is large enough to accommodate the number of stitches that you'll be working in it. On the other hand, make sure it's not so long that you have a big loose hole in the center. When you're working a pattern, it tells you how many chain stitches you need for the proper size center ring. After you make the center ring, you're ready for the first round. Just as when you're beginning a new row, you first have to determine the number of turning chain stitches that you need in order to bring your hook up to the proper level for the next round of stitches. (The number of turning chain stitches you need depends on the stitch you're about to work.) Now here's the really easy part about working with a center ring: Instead of inserting your hook into the actual stitches of the center ring, you just go through the center hole. The following steps show how to work single crochet stitches into the center ring: 1. Chain (ch) 1 to make the turning chain for single crochet (sc). 2. Insert your hook into the center ring (see Figure 3a). Figure 3: Working a single crochet in the center ring. 4. Draw the yarn through the center ring (refer to Figure 3b). 5. Yarn over your hook. 6. Draw the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook. One single crochet stitch is complete (see Figure 4a). Figure 4: Working a round of single crochet. Continue to work single crochet stitches into the ring until you can't fit anymore (refer to Figure 4b). The center ring will stretch somewhat, and you'll probably be surprised at how many stitches you can fit in. Working stitches in the chain stitch The second most common method for creating a center ring is to work all the stitches for the first round in one chain stitch. You generally use this method when the design calls for a small hole in the center of the pattern or almost no hole at all. To start a center ring this way, you always chain 1 (this is what you work the stitches in) plus the number of stitches required for the turning chain, depending on which particular stitch you work in the first round. Follow these steps to work your first round of double crochet stitches into a chain stitch: 1. Chain (ch) 1. 2. Chain 3 more for the double crochet (dc) stitch's turning chain. 4. Insert your hook in the fourth chain from the hook (see Figure 5). This is the first chain stitch you made and becomes your center ring chain stitch. Figure 5: Insert hook into first chain stitch made. 5. Work 1 complete double crochet stitch in the center ring chain stitch. Continue to work double crochet stitches in the same chain stitch until you're comfortable with the process. Figure 6a shows you how to begin the second stitch, and Figure 6b shows several completed stitches and growing. Figure 6: Making first round of double crochet in center-ring chain stitch. Related Articles Getting Hooked on Crocheting Looking at Yarn from the Inside Out Keep Your Crochet Hooks in Tiptop Shape Unraveling a Yarn Label Caring for Your Crochet Related Titles Crochet Patterns For Dummies Getting Hooked on Crocheting - For Dummies Crocheting For Dummies Getting Hooked on Crocheting Adapted From: Crocheting For Dummies Printer-ready version Your crochet hook is the single most important tool you use when crocheting. To understand how it works, you need to know a bit about how it's made. This article explains, in detail, everything you need to know about hooks, such as why they're shaped the way they are and the function of each distinct part. The anatomy of a crochet hook Even though a crochet hook appears to be nothing more than a straight stick with a hook on one end, you notice that it has five distinct and necessary parts, as Figure 1 shows. Figure 1: Identifying the five parts of a crochet hook. Each part of the hook has been designed to perform a specific function.

• Point: This part of the hook is inserted into previously made stitches. It must be sharp enough to slide easily through the stitches, yet blunt enough so that it doesn't split the yarn or stab your finger.

• Throat: The open part underneath the point where the hook catches the yarn must be large enough to hold the yarn size that you're working with but small enough to prevent the previous loop from sliding off.

• Shaft: The shaft holds the loops that you're working with, and for the most part, determines the size of your stitches.

• Thumb rest: The flat part of the hook located on the shaft, the thumb rest, should be sandwiched between your thumb and middle finger when you hold the hook, enabling you to easily rotate the hook to the correct position to perform each stitch. Without the thumb rest, the hook can easily twist in the wrong direction, and you'll find yourself gripping the hook too tightly — leaving you with hookers cramp!

• Handle: The remaining length of the hook below the thumb rest completes the hook; this part is called the handle. Although you don't actually hold the hook by the handle, achieving the proper balance when crocheting is a necessity.

Many different companies manufacture hooks, and each company produces hooks with slightly different shapes. Some hooks have sharp points, while others have more rounded points. Some hooks have distinct flat, cutout throats, while others have smoother, rounded throats. Nowadays, most of the standard size and steel hooks have thumb rests; although the largest of the standard hooks don't. Take some time to experiment with a couple different brands of crochet hooks to find the one that you're most comfortable working with. You'll be glad that you did. Crochet hooks: Choosing your weapon Crochet hooks are made in a wide range of sizes and materials, but when you go to choose a hook, don't be overwhelmed by the seemingly endless choices.

• Standard hooksare most often made of aluminum or plastic (and sometimes wood) and are normally used when working with yarn. They measure about 6 inches in length and vary in thickness from 2.5 mm to 19 mm.

• Steel hooks, which are the smallest of all crochet hooks, are used for crocheting with thread and fine yarns. They're made of well, you know, steel, and measure about 5 inches in length and run from .75 mm to 3.5 mm wide.

Due to the nature of crochet, each stitch is worked until only one loop remains on the hook. Space isn't needed to hold many loops (the exceptions being the Afghan stitch and double-ended crochet). Therefore, the hooks can be made to a convenient length. Hook sizes are denoted using three different systems, U.S. (American), Continental (metric), and U.K. (English), but don't let that fool you. They're quite often labeled with both the U.S. letter-number designation as well as the numeric metric designation. The size of the crochet hook refers to the thickness of the hook, which in turn determines the size of the stitches created. For standard hooks, using the U.S. or metric system, the higher the number or farther the letter is in the alphabet, such as P or Q, the larger the hook. For steel hooks, which use only a number designation, the opposite holds true. The higher the number, the smaller the hook. When shopping for hooks, don't be afraid to splurge. Hooks are inexpensive, and having extras of the most common sizes doesn't hurt. Even after you've found the style of hook that you're comfortable with, hang on to any other hooks that you may have collected. You never know when you won't be able to find where you put your favorite hook, and that spare one you don't like as well will do as a backup when you absolutely have to get started now! If you opt to use plastic crochet hooks, keep in mind that with heavy use, they can bend or break. Try using aluminum hooks for the standard sizes, simply because they literally last forever, provided that they don't disappear. Just for fun: Ten uses for a crochet hook (besides crocheting) Guess you thought that crochet hooks were good for only crocheting, right Well, here are some more interesting uses for them:

• Pull a yarn snag to the inside of a sweater.

• Reweave a dropped stitch while knitting.

• Pull a drawstring through its casing.

• Fix a tangled necklace.

• Rescue a ring that dropped down the drain.

• Pull hair through the holes of the cap when highlighting your hair.

• Weave a potholder using a loom.

• Weave anything through anything.

• Stake up a plant.

• Spear the last olive at the bottom of the jar.

Looking at Yarn from the Inside Out - For Dummies Crocheting For Dummies Looking at Yarn from the Inside Out Adapted From: Crocheting For Dummies Printer-ready version Yarns are made up of a wide variety of materials, ranging from synthetics such as acrylic, rayon, and nylon, to natural fibers including various wools, cottons, and silks. Plus, you can find numerous combinations or blends of any materials. When choosing a yarn for a project, you should take into consideration how you will use the piece when it's completed. If you're making a baby blanket, choose a yarn that will stand up to repeated washings, not something the new mother will have to handwash and lay flat to dry. If you're making a tablecloth or bedspread that will someday be an heirloom piece, invest in good quality cotton that will withstand the test of time through several generations without falling apart. For a nice warm sweater, you can't beat wool. Its inherent qualities still make it the best bet for durability and warmth. After all, Mother Nature does know best! Wool Of all the natural fibers used to make yarn, wool has been, and remains, the most popular choice to work with when creating a piece that you want to endure for years to come. Spun from the fleece of sheep, its resilient nature allows the stitches to retain their shapes. Wool is soft, easy to work with, and relatively lightweight. It's available in many different size yarns, from fingering weight to bulky. You can crochet with wool to make everything from beautiful, warm weather sweaters to cozy, wintertime pullovers, hats, scarves, mittens, socks, and Afghans. Due to advances in the manufacturing process, wool has become more low maintenance as well. But be careful to read the yarn label for specific washing instructions. Wool is gathered from various breeds of sheep, each providing its own unique texture. Other animals are also painlessly sheared to give you more luxurious yarns. Goats supply fuzzy mohair and cashmere. Alpaca and other members of the llama family give you a wonderful selection of soft wools, and the Angora rabbit provides that exceptionally delicate, fluffy, and familiar yarn. If you're one of the many people who's allergic to wool, don't despair. Many new synthetics emulate the real stuff, and if you don't tell, no one will be able to tell the difference. Silk Spun from the cocoon of the silk worm, silk yarn has a smooth, oftentimes shiny finish. Lightweight and absorbent, silk yarn is a perfect choice for warm-weather garments. Silk's often combined with cotton or wool to increase its elasticity and durability. Cotton Once thought of only as "thread, " and mainly used to make doilies, bedspreads, and tablecloths, cotton has become known as a versatile yarn. It's available in a wide range of sizes, from very fine threads to worsted weight yarn. For the same reason that we love to purchase clothes made from cotton, garments crocheted from cotton can give you the same wonderful feel. Cotton yarn is also a good choice when making home decor items, such as placemats, potholders, curtains, and doilies. It's washable, durable, and readily available. Synthetics This family of yarn is produced from man-made fibers and include monebaggasse